Kolomenskoje

Kolomenskoje - Zarenresidenz© Elisabeth Harzhauser

Mein erster Tag in Moskau führt mich weg von den bekannten Hot Spots ins Grüne. An der Moskwa liegt in einem weitflächigen Park die Zarenresidenz Kolomenskoje.

U-Bahn fahren in Moskau

Die erste Herausforderung des Tages wartet unter der Erde auf mich: das U-Bahn fahren. Der Reiseführer bereitet mich darauf vor, dass alle Beschriftungen nur auf Kyrillisch sind und man die Stationsnamen aus dem Zug heraus nicht erkennen kann. Die Empfehlung lautet, sich die Anzahl der Stationen am Plan einzuprägen und dann mitzuzählen. Na Bravo – bei so etwas reicht meine Aufmerksamkeitsspanne ungefähr an jene eines Eichhörnchens heran!

U-Bahn Station in Moskau© Elisabeth Harzhauser

Ich bin also ganz konzentriert bei der Sache und schaffe es ohne größere Probleme an meinen Zielort. Dass die doch tatsächlich eine Station hineingeschummelt haben, die nicht auf meinem Plan war, kann mich auch nicht aus der Ruhe bringen ;). Für den kleinen Stressfaktor entschädigen dafür die wunderschönen Stationen.

U-Bahn Station in Moskau© Elisabeth Harzhauser

Man merkt, dass die Moskauer U-Bahn zu den ältesten auf der Welt gehört. Sieht alles sehr edel aus hier. Und an einem Sonntag kann man das Ambiente auch richtig genießen – auf meinen Strecken zumindest ist nicht viel los und man kann sogar gemütlich sitzen im Zug.

Kolomenskoje – Winterlicher Park

Kolomenskoje ist eigentlich eine riesige Freiluftausstellung. Im Original erhaltene Gebäude schmiegen sich neben Nachbauten in die Landschaft am Fluss. Als ich ankomme beginnt es leicht zu regnen, aber zum Glück dauert der Schauer nicht lang an und ich kann fast drei Stunden durch den Park spazieren. Der Frühling ist hier noch nicht so weit wie bei uns, obwohl die Temperaturen mittlerweile angenehm warm sind.

Kolomenskoje - Apfelbäume© Elisabeth Harzhauser

Es sieht also alles noch ein bisschen elend aus, aber ich kann mir gut vorstellen, wie hübsch beispielsweise der Garten mit den 900 Apfelbäumen zur Blütezeit aussehen muss!

Christi-Himmelfahrts-Kirche

Am besten gefällt mir die Christi-Himmelfahrts-Kirche. Das älteste Gebäude auf dem Areal aus dem Jahr 1532 wurde zum Andenken an die Geburt des Zaren Iwan der Schreckliche erbaut und zählt heute zum Unesco Weltkulturerbe.

Christi-Himmelfahrts-Kirche© Elisabeth Harzhauser

Leider ist sie nur im Sommer geöffnet für Innenbesichtigungen. Schön ist auch die Johannes-der-Täufer-Kirche, die umgeben ist von einem kleinen Waldfriedhof. Um sie zu erreichen muss eine kleine Schlucht überwunden werden. Heißt im Klartext: zuerst viele Stufen runter und dann noch mehr Stufen wieder hoch auf den Hügel. Was tut man nicht alles für den Blick auf ein paar alte Steine ;).

Johannes-der-Täufer-Kirche© Elisabeth Harzhauser

Zarenpalast

Weniger alt ist hingegen die Zarenresidenz. Das ursprüngliche Holzgebäude wurde 1768 abgerissen und erst vor wenigen Jahren anhand erhaltener Pläne wieder aufgebaut. Ganz interessant anzusehen, aber natürlich nicht so beeindruckend wenn man weiß, dass es nicht “echt” ist.

Kolomenskoje - Zarenresidenz© Elisabeth Harzhauser

Gottesdienst

Zurück in der Innenstadt spaziere ich an einigen Kirchen vorbei über die Moskwa. Eine Kirche ist offen und ich wage einen Blick ins Innere.

Auferstehungskirche© Elisabeth Harzhauser

Dort findet scheinbar gerade eine orthodoxe Messe statt. Ihre Köpfe mit Tüchern bedeckt stehen Frauen vor dem Altar und singen mit dem Pfarrer gemeinsam. Der Gesang ist schwierig zu beschreiben, nicht vergleichbar mit unseren Kirchenliedern. Er erinnert eher an Meditation. Ich bleibe ein Weile und lausche den beruhigend Klängen. Eine schöne Auszeit vom lauten Leben außerhalb der Mauern :).

Fazit

Moskau hat neben Plattenbauten und Kreml noch einiges mehr zu bieten. Abseits der Touristenpfade ist es erstaunlich ruhig und beschaulich. Man findet sich zurecht, aber auf Verständigungen auf Englisch braucht man nicht zu hoffen. Das können scheinbar nicht mal junge Leute, wie meine bisherige Erfahrung zeigt. Bin gespannt, was ich die nächsten Tage noch alles entdecke :).

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